Friday, February 27, 2015

Lemongrass

Although lemongrass is a relatively new spice in Europe and North America, the increase in popularity in Thai and Indonesian cooking means it’s now available in most green markets and supermarkets. Asian foodstores will carry both fresh and dry lemongrass; sometimes under the Indonesian name ‘sereh’. Its rich lemon flavor and fragrance make it a tangy addition to many foods.

how to choose:
Much of lemongrass’s flavor is concentrated in its lower, cane-like stalks, which is why most markets sell them already trimmed of their leafy tops, leaving just a few short, spiky blades still attached. Look for firm, pale-green stalks with fat, bulbous bottoms and reasonably fresh-looking tops (they may be a little dry but shouldn’t be desiccated or yellowed).

how to prep:
There are two main ways to cook with lemongrass, and each determines how you handle it.

To infuse teas, broths, soups, and braising liquids, trim off the spiky tops and the bases, crush the stalks with the side of a knife to release their aromatic oils, and then cut them into 1- or 2-inch pieces. Remove the pieces before eating (they tend to be woody) or eat around them.

To use lemongrass in marinades, stir-fries, salads, spice rubs, and curry pastes, trim the top and base of the stalks; you want to use only the bottom 4 inches or so. Then peel off any dry or tough outer layers before finely chopping or mincing.

Lemongrass holds up to long cooking and gains intensity the longer it’s cooked. If you’d like a strong lemongrass flavor, add minced lemongrass at the start of cooking, browning it along with the other aromatics.

For a lighter, fresher lemongrass flavor, add it near the end of cooking.

how to store:
To store, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for two to three weeks, or freeze for up to six months.

culinary note:
The tender stalks of lemongrass can be chopped fine, and the leaves, once peeled, can be used in the same way as scallions to flavor casseroles, curries, and soups.

The base of the leaves is used in a curry-like powder that is commonly used in southeast Asian cooking, especially with fish, chicken, and pork.

Lemongrass combines particularly well with chilies, garlic, and shallots.

medicinal note:
Lemongrass can be taken as a digestive aid, and to relieve feverish complaints.

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